Multipurpose Items To Survive Crisis

History has already proven how fragile the global economy is and it really wouldn’t take much to have it collapse altogether. If that should happen, life will get exponentially tougher for the majority of us, so being prepared in advance is crucial.
As preppers, we’re always looking for ways to re-use, repurpose and get creative with what we have on hand so in that spirit, we’ve put together a list of common household multipurpose items to use when surviving an economic crisis. Don’t wait til the economy collapses, though.
These items are great to use now because they’re also environmentally friendly!
Duct Tape
I know that we preach the value of duct tape all the time, but it really can’t be overstated as an invaluable multi-use item that every prepper should have. Just a few things that you can use duct tape for include:

• Patching tarps, rain gear, shoes and tents
• Splint a broken tent pole (or a leg!)
• Sealing broken windows
• Sealing leaky window sills and frames
• Binding wounds
• Marking trails
• Making a cup in a pinch
• Making easy fly strips
• Making a sling
• Emergency vehicle repair (hoses, etc.)

There really is no limit to what you can use duct tape for.  Have several roles on hand.
Salt
According to the Salt Institute, there are more than 14,000 uses for salt; as a matter of fact, Roman soldiers were actually PAID in it! That’s what we call a serious multi-use item and the fact that it’s an abundant, cheap mineral makes it even better.
In addition to tasting good, salt also acts as an antibacterial, antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory agent when used topically and can be used for a number of household cleaning and disinfecting purposes.
Here are just a few of the 14,000 uses!

• Salt melts ice
• Use it to preserve foods, especially meats
• Tenderize tough cuts of meat
• If you forage for nuts, soaking them in a salt water solution for several hours will make them easier to open
• A pinch of salt in coffee reduces bitterness
• A pinch of salt will keep milk fresh longer
• Gargle or rinse with salt to help a sore throat, canker sore or toothache
• Salt makes water boil at a higher temperature, reducing cooking time and saving fuel
• Puts out grease fires
• Combine with baking soda to make toothpaste
• Use with some honey or water to exfoliate
• Combine with baking soda to make an abrasive, stain-removing cleanser
• Wash your hands with it to get rid of oniony or garlicy smells
• Use a salt bath to draw infection or swelling out of minor wounds or aching muscles
• Relieve the itch or pain from bug bites and stings
• Soak candles in a salt solution for a few hours and they won’t drip when burned
• Line doorways, windowsills and shelves with salt to keep ants away
• Salt water kills weeds, including poison ivy
• Toss a tablespoon or so into wet shoes to help dry them faster and deodorize them
• A sprinkle of salt helps soak up grease and scrub off particles when cleaning your iron skillet
• If you’re air-drying your clothes in the winter, add a handful of salt to your final rinse to keep them from freezing on the line.
• Add a pinch to your jams and jellies. It helps the gelatin set quicker
• Salt mixed with alcohol (1:4) is great to remove grease stains from clothes

14,000 uses. Stockpile plenty!
Bleach
Bleach can be used to kill disease-causing bacteria, fungi and viruses and it takes very little to be; a 10:1 bleach/water solution will kill just about anything, including the AIDS and hepatitis viruses. Since disease is going to be a huge issue in a post-SHTF society, an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.
You can also use it to sanitize drinking water. Add ¼ teaspoon per gallon of clear water or ½ teaspoon per gallon of cloudy (but filtered) water. Let it stand for 30 minutes prior to drinking.
Vinegar
First, let’s differentiate between white vinegar and apple cider vinegar. White vinegar is a fermentation of dilute ethyl alcohol. Apple cider vinegar is a natural product made from fermented apples/juice. Both have awesome cleansing properties but apple cider vinegar is also has medicinal properties.
Keeping both on hand would be ideal but if you have to choose one or the other to stockpile, we would suggest going with apple cider vinegar, hands down.

Here are just a few uses for vinegar:

• The acetic acid in vinegar tenderizes meat
• Dabbing some vinegar onto a fish will help the scales come off easier
• Preserve eggs by pickling them in vinegar. White works best because of the distinctive flavor or apple cider, but either will do
• Spritz on your skin to relieve eczema and other skin conditions
• Kills bacteria on your face that causes acne
• Clean and disinfect counters, windows and other hard surfaces
• AC vinegar helps with digestion and helps soothe heartburn and UTIs
• Mix with baking soda to clean and disinfect water bottles and containers
• Helps reduce night sweats associated with menopause
• Nutrition: ACV has lots of minerals and enzymes, including calcium and potassium
• Mix with baking soda and spray on shelves and in dark corners to deter mice and rats
• Mix with water to relieve painful sunburn
• Kills mildew
• Antibiotic properties help cuts and scrapes heal faster and with less scarring
• Kills the itch and odor associated with yeast infection. Drink an ounce or so in the morning to fight the yeast internally and swab/douche with diluted vinegar to stop the itching and kill the yeast externally
• Kills dandruff
• Antibacterial properties help kill bugs that cause a sore throat when you gargle with it

 Isopropyl Alcohol
Acts as an antibacterial, antifungal and antiviral for wounds, first aid tools and surfaces. It’s also extremely flammable and can be used to make Sterno cans to cook with. If possible, go with 99% if you’re going to use it to burn instead of the 70% that most people grab.
Chalk
Can be used to mark paths, deter ants and insects if you put a line of it in your doorway, or even as a component to make biofuel.
Zip Ties
The uses are endless. To reuse them just slide a razor blade or small screwdriver into the teeth at the lock and pull the tab back out.
Used Tea Bags
Great for starting fires. Just dry them out then store in an airtight container.
Honey
 
Antibacterial, antiseptic and antifungal. Use as a base for salves or to relieve the pain of beestings. Also high in nutrients, including vital minerals. Honey is also great for curing allergies if taken orally every day. Pure local honey should most certainly be a part of your stockpile.
Cayenne Pepper
Not only does it make food taste great, cayenne powder helps stop bleeding and is good for various ailments including various digestive disorders. It’s also a natural anti-inflammatory if eaten regularly.
Newspapers
Don’t toss out those Sunday papers after you get the coupons out of them! Newspaper can be used for toilet paper, insulation, starting fires or making a semi-bulletproof wall.
Tarp
In case of economic crisis, keeping warm is going to be an issue. Use a tarp to isolate areas of the house off to keep heat localized. You can, of course, also use tarps for catching water, building shelter, patching damaged roofs, keeping warm, or a million other uses. They’re just handy to have.

Eggshells
Packed full of calcium and protein, eggshells have several uses. You can feed them to your chickens for better egg production. Store them in a jar of water then pour the water on your plants. It provides excellent nutrients to the soil.
Eggshells are also good as an abrasive to clean iron skillets or other surfaces with. Bake them and grind them into a powder. Add a tablespoon to your breakfast to boost your calcium intake. If you want to get really creative, half-shells are great to use to start your seeds in.
Baking Soda
This stuff is amazing. We’ve already mentioned several ways to use it with other ingredients but it makes a great base for a paste for cleaning or for many medical uses. You can take a teaspoon of it for heartburn in a pinch (be careful, chronic use can make ulcers worse). It kills fungi and yeast and soaks up moisture from your shoes. Scrub your veggies with them, or use it as a base for deodorant or toothpaste. The list goes on.
These are just a few of the top items that we found that are cheap and easy to stockpile. Because they’re so multi-functional, you should make every effort to stockpile each of them!

This article has been written by Theresa Crouse for Survivopedia..

The Big Blackout

The Big Blackout: Why I’m Going Low-Tech to Prep for an EMP

 By Daisy Luther

This might be stating the obvious, but in the event of an EMP, things will not be the same, no matter how great your generator is.

Aaron Dykes of Truthstream Media wrote an excellent article about the extreme likelihood of a catastrophic event that could take out our power grid:

"Billionaire hedge fund manager Paul Singer is warning investors – and more broadly, lawmakers and leaders – about the potential destructive power of an electromagnetic pulse, or EMP, which could be triggered by solar events or artificially, via blasts in the atmosphere.

According to Singer, research shows that no other incident, including a nuclear bomb, has the potential for such wide-scale devastation, coupled with the relative likelihood of occurring. While a nuke would primarily impact on the location of a such (such a city), an EMP could occur globally or across large-scale regions, wreaking havoc on the entire electric grid and devices…

…Government agencies, such as NASA and Homeland Security, have taken some preliminary steps towards preparing for an EMP attack – regardless of the potential for natural of man made causes – but the public at large remains cripplingly unaware of the dangers present to modern life, and its reliance on all things electronic, digital and, thus, transient. (Check out the rest of this MUST-READ article HERE)

We’ve all read many articles about the likelihood of grid failure. We’ve been warned again and again that it isn’t a matter of if, but when, it happens.

Because of this, a lot of people are preparing for a very different future.  Folks are getting ready for the Big Blackout.  The thing is, I am not sure everyone is thinking this through.  Many people are spending buckets of money on preparations to try to keep their lives as similar as possible to how they are today. They’re investing in diesel generators and Faraday cages to protect their electronics. They are buying propane-fueled appliances.  They’re stashing away fuel to run these gadgets.

Generators are not a practical investment for EMP preparation.

The problem with that method of preparation is, the fuel-generated lifestyle will only last for as long as you have…well…fuel.

Very few of us have enough storage space or the proper facilities to store 5 years’ worth of fuel.  If the power grid goes down in a catastrophic way, it’s going to take at least 5 years to get things up and running again, and that’s assuming things ever get up and running again in the way they are now.

That means that people are spending thousands of dollars investing in items that will only sustain their lifestyles for a brief period of time.  Generators are not a long term solution unless you have renewable power. (More on that later). While a generator would be a blessing in a short-term emergency (think a week-long power outage due to a storm), for a permanent way of life they are completely impractical.

Furthermore, in the event of an EMP strike, if your generator is not protected, it may not work no matter how much fuel you have stored.

Maybe the fact that I’m not rolling in money is the reason I feel this way. Maybe people with lots of money to spare have ideas about how to keep their generators running forever. But for my personal situation, this is a preparation strategy that is completely impractical.

A low-tech lifestyle is the best way to prep for grid-down survival.

If money is an object in your preparedness endeavors, (and let’s face it, money is an object for most of us these days), then focus your dollars on preps that are sustainable without electrical power.  Instead of trying to live the exact same life you are living right now, only fueled by an individual generator, look for low-tech solutions instead.  This reminds me of people who stop eating gluten but still want to eat exactly like they have been eating their entire lives, only now with expensive gluten-free baked goods that cost 4 times the price of their wheat-filled counterparts.  When things change dramatically, accept the change and adapt to it, instead of trying to maintain the illusion that everything is the same.

Whether you can get power from an outlet in the wall or not, the necessities of day-to-day life will remain the same:

• Water
• Shelter and Warmth
• Food
• Sanitation and Hygiene
• Light

The ultimate preparedness goal should be to provide those necessities without any help from the power grid, generators, or fossil fuel. (LEARN MORE about planning for a long-term disaster)

• When my youngest daughter and I lived in the North Woods of Canada, we lost power frequently throughout the year. Lots of folks in the area had generators that they would fire up when the power went out, and that was a viable solution, since gas stations were available and fuel was pretty much unlimited as long as you could afford to go get it.  We were on a tight budget, however, and we adapted our situation to live without power during those outages.  After the first couple of outages, we had worked out most of the bugs and we even began to look forward to our time without power – it was like a little vacation from the regular workday.  As plugged in as our society is, power is not actually a necessity – it’s a luxury, and we can live without it as long as we are adaptable, creative, willing, and prepared.
  Let’s look at some specific examples of low-tech ways to take care of our necessities.  These ideas are just food for thought, based on my own preparedness plan – they may not be the solutions that will work best for you, but the goal here is to brainstorm your own situation and figure out how to live your life low-tech if the need occurs.

  Off-grid Water

  If you haven’t located water sources near your home,  it’s time to break out the topographical maps of your area and find them!  A low-tech water plan might include some or all of the following:
• A manual pump for your well
• Buckets and wheelbarrows for hauling water from a nearby source
• Rain barrels for water harvesting (THIS is an inexpensive option with mixed reviews)
• A gravity-fed water filtration system (we have THIS ONE)
• A water dispenser for convenient access to filtered water (Be sure to get one with the bottle on top so that it can be operated without electricity, and not one that uses an electric pump to pull the water up from the bottom)
• Storage units for water such as cisterns or tanks
• Portable water filter bottles for safe water when you are away from home (we have THIS ONE)

Off-grid Shelter and Warmth

Homes these days aren’t built to function without a connection to the power grid.  If you aren’t fortunate enough to live in an older home that was designed for off-grid living, look at some ways to take your home back a century or so. A secondary heating system is vital in most climates.

• An antique oil heater can use lots of different oils and requires little effort for installation (THIS SITE is loaded with information about Perfection oil heaters)
• Have a woodstove installed
• Clean your chimney and get your fireplace working
• Set up an outdoor fireplace with large rocks to bring inside for radiant heat (this won’t get you super warm but it’s better than nothing)
• Have a good supply of blankets, warm clothes, and cold-rated sleeping bags
• Learn techniques to stay warm with less heat

Off-grid Food

Not only do you need access to food, but you also need a way to cook it and a way to keep your refrigerated and frozen items from spoiling.

• Grow a garden and save your seeds
• Have a greenhouse or extend your growing season with cold frames and hoop houses
• Have a well-stocked pantry
• Have supplies for off-grid canning (Jars, lids, outdoor burner) - and learn how to can without a kitchen
• Learn ways to get by without refrigeration
• Outdoor cooking methods – THIS STOVE can be used with 3 different types of fuel
• If you’re anything like me, have a French Press for off-grid coffee!
• Make a solar cooker – learn how HERE

 Off-grid Sanitation and Hygiene

How will you keep clean and deal with human waste in the event of a long-term emergency?

• If you are on a septic system, store water for flushing and have a collection system to save your used water in the future
• If you are not on a septic system, devise a plan and get supplies for an outhouse or cathole
• Learn how to do your laundry off-grid (I use a janitor’s bucket LIKE THIS for wringing out clothes – get the best quality you can afford – the cheap plastic ones will break when you use them for laundry)
• Learn how to make your own cleaning products

Off-grid Lighting

The world is a scary place when it’s dark, and most of us have forgotten how dark TRUE dark really is, due to light pollution and the proximity of neighbors. Here are some lighting solutions for an off grid world:

• Solar garden lights – store them outside to be charged during the day and bring them in and put them in vases where they’re needed at night
• Oil lamps – you can recycle used cooking oil or use rendered fat to power these – they give a brighter light and can be used for reading and close-work (Learn more HERE)
• Candles – stock them and learn to make them
• Solar powered flashlights

Renewable power is practical power.

One exception to my no-generators rule is renewable power. If you can afford a solar set up for your home, then very little would change about your day-to-day life, aside from you being one of the few people with power.  You don’t have to go totally solar to have power for a few important items.  Assuming you have electronics in working order, they can be powered with solar, wind, or water.

Most of us can’t afford an entire set up but these are some options to consider:

• Solar-powered systems for specific items – learn more HERE
• Use wind power – learn more HERE
• Use water power – learn more HERE

Food Storage Packing

Food Storage Packing - Do-it-yourself Facts & Myths

By Denis Korn

 

Know the facts about do-it-yourself packing!

The purpose of this article is to present specific details and recommendations for packing your own shelf stable foods for food storage, including what works and what doesn’t in creating an oxygen free atmosphere for long term food storage, and the common misconceptions of how to do your own packing will be covered.  While there are many different types of dried foods that can be stored for extended periods of time, most folks are interested in how best to store grain and bean products.

Some material will be repeated in this article that has been covered in previous articles concerning the use of oxygen absorbers, storage conditions, and 30 year shelf life claims.  While I could write a book on every specific detail of every packing option and all the technical specifications of all available packing containers, it is not the purpose of this article.  I will cover important highlights, facts, insights, and information gained from over 37 years in the preparedness and outdoor recreation industry.  It is important to keep in mind that I have not only been a retailer of preparedness and outdoor foods, I have been a manufacturer, developer of hundreds of recipes, packaging and product  innovator, and researcher of shelf stable foods.

Some of the material presented here will contradict and challenge information available on the web or in some do-it-yourself circles.  Many people assume preparedness information to be accurate without careful consideration of the expertise of the source or the validity of the facts.  I encourage you to research on your own any of the information presented in this article – or in any article for that matter – and to use basic critical thinking skills to evaluate the evidence and data you are offered.  A little common sense goes a long way in assessing many of the claims being made about shelf life and do-it-yourself issues.  I talk about the issue of trust and reliability in my articles: Who do you Trust?, The Research and Evaluation Process, and Purchasing Food Reserves – The Essential Questions.

Basics

Before you start packing your foods, be clear about what it is you want to store and for how long.  Are the foods appropriate for your plans?  Do you know how to prepare them?  Do you have an adequate quantity?  Do you have all the equipment necessary to prepare your foods?  What is the nutritional quality?  I suggest you study the key foundational information in my article Beginning and Improving Preparedness Planning.

This is an article dealing with dry food products with a low to very low moisture content – depending upon the item usually between 2 and about 10 %.  Products can include grains, beans, seeds, dehydrated or freeze-dried fruits and vegetables, seasonings, and powders and flours.

Grains and beans can be whole or processed into numerous forms.  Keep in mind that when a whole grain or bean is processed it can compromise the integrity of a natural barrier, expose any oils, and begin a process of oxidation or rancidity leading to a shortened shelf life.  Some processed bean products, such as TVP (Textured Vegetable Protein) have been defatted to insure a longer shelf life, and some grains have naturally lower oil content.  Because of the position of the germ in rice, brown rice is not appropriate for long term storage.  Also, because white flour has no wheat germ, it will last significantly longer than whole wheat flour.  Research the products you are storing to determine both the moisture and oil content.

What are the goals and expectations for your food preparedness planning?  What are you hoping to accomplish and for whom and how many?  How realistic are your plans?  How long do you want your stored foods to be palatable – edible – nutritious – agreeable?  Be honest.  I once again refer you to another very helpful article in assisting you in preparedness planning: The 12 Crucial Questions of Preparedness Planning.

Why oxygen free?

At the end of this article I have included information on the 6 critical conditions for storing food.  In this section we explore the need for an oxygen free atmosphere when storing food for long periods.  Basically there are 2 reasons for wanting to store food in an oxygen free environment – eliminate the possibility for infestation from insects and microorganisms, and control oxidation, which leads to the rancidity of fats and oils, foul taste, off color, and nutritional deterioration.  The lower the oxygen levels – the more effective in preserving the integrity of the foods stored.  Some foods are more susceptible to oxidation deterioration than others.  It is important to know how susceptible the foods you are storing are to oxidation, because as you will see the type of container you store your foods in may at some point no longer be an adequate oxygen barrier.  Research by Mitsubishi Gas Chemical Company, the inventors of oxygen absorbers and manufacturer of the Ageless® brand absorber, indicates that in an oxygen free atmosphere (their absorbers can reduce the residual oxygen level in the proper container to 0.1% or less) all adults, larvae, pupae, and eggs of the most prevalent dry food insects are killed within 14 days.

If oxidation and elimination of all stages in an insect’s development by eliminating available oxygen is not an issue, there are other methods that can be utilized with varying effectiveness in controlling insect infestation.  Options include:

• Exposure to freezing temperatures for an adequate length of time (this may kill adults and larvae but not all eggs)
• Using bay leaves and other aromatic herbs to inhibit insect reproduction
• Using food grade diatomaceous earth to kill adults (the microscopic very sharp texture of the particles pierce the bodies of the insects and they dehydrate and die).  In this case the live adult must come into contact with the diatomaceous earth.  Some folks put the material on the bottom of a container hoping the insects will go there, while others coat all the contents of a container with a fine layer of material and wash it off when it is time to consume the food.

Methods of reducing residual oxygen levels when you pack your own

Utilize an oxygen absorber – properly (see the very informative article Using and About Oxygen Absorbers)

Pro:

• Very effective in reducing residual oxygen levels – in my opinion it is the most effective technology available today.
• Relatively inexpensive and easy to use if done properly.
• Harmless components – iron oxide.
• Easily obtainable.

Con:

• This product was developed for use by professional food companies who understand how to properly use and store it.  There are important guidelines which must be followed for the absorber to work properly and not lose its effectiveness.  The do-it-yourself person will defeat the purpose of using this technology if the guidelines and instructions are not properly followed.  It is imperative that the absorber user obtain all necessary information from a qualified supplier on its correct use. (Using and About Oxygen Absorbers)
• The absorber user needs to do their homework and make sure the correct sized absorber is being utilized for both the size of the container and food product packed.

Insert a wand into a pouch, can, bucket, or jar and attempt to replace the atmosphere by squirting it with nitrogen (the most commonly used inert gas)

Pro:

• Fairly easy to do
• Relatively inexpensive

Con:

• Without the proper testing equipment there is no way for the pack your own person to know the residual oxygen levels of their containers.  If the levels are too high, you have defeated the purpose for which you intended.  How much nitrogen to use and the length of time to insert it into the container are both speculation and assumption.  Do you want to rely on guess work?
• When removing the wand and sealing the container some amount of oxygen will be introduced into the container, which will affect the atmosphere in the container.
• To achieve the desired effect of a very low residual oxygen level this method has many weaknesses.  (NOTE: Before the days of the oxygen absorber, companies such as mine used elaborate equipment designed to draw a vacuum and nitrogen flush in a chamber.  The goal was a residual oxygen level of 2% or lower, because this was the military specification for long term storage of foods in a #10 size metal can.  Even with the proper equipment reaching these residual levels required experience, testing, and effective methodology.  Can “wanding” by hand achieve these levels?)

The dry ice method – There was a time (and there may still be) when folks would put dry ice at the bottom or top of a container, leave the lid slightly ajar, wait for the ice to evaporate, and then seal the lid.  This method has so many problems that I won’t bother to give it pros and cons.  It is not recommended.

Use a home model vacuum sealer with either a plastic pouch or available attachment to put over a jar

Pro:

• Equipment is easily accessible
• Can be effective for short term storage
• Easy to use

Con:

• Equipment and extra pouches can be costly
• The vacuum pulled (measured in inches of mercury) may be helpful for short term use, however is neither strong enough nor effective for a long term storage requirement.  The plastic pouches and jar seams are not designed to hold a vacuum for extended periods (longer than 1-2 years).

Go to a cannery –  You can do your own canning of your own product in #10 metal cans.  Some canneries will sell you cans and bulk foods.

Pro:

• Very effective method for long term food storage – metal cans are the best containers
• Depending on the cannery, costs can be low for using the equipment
• You can easily insert an oxygen absorber into the cans for maximum shelf life

Con:

• While metal cans are the most effective containers, they can be costly and very difficult to obtain in smaller quantities
• Canneries are not readily available to most folks – most are sponsored by members of the Mormon Church, check on usage and membership requirements, hours of operation, and costs at each cannery
• You’ll need the proper vehicle to transport bulk foods and cans

Use a manually operated or electric, smaller, model open top can seam sealer

Pro:

• Very effective method for long term food storage – metal cans are the best containers
• You have significant flexibility as to when to use the sealer, and with whom it is to be shared
• You can easily insert an oxygen absorber into the cans for maximum shelf life
• They are easy to use once you get the hang of it

Con:

• They can be expensive
• You must do your homework and determine the best manufacturer and model
• You must make sure you are operating them correctly and that the seams are being sealed properly
• You need access to a supply of cans

Containers

Of all the issues relating to packing your own shelf stable foods, the most effective container to use can be the most confusing and misrepresented.  As stated in the beginning of this article be clear about what you are storing, how much, and for how long.

Plastic buckets (HDPE – high density polyethylene) – 5 and 6 gallon round and square sizes with handles are very popular for packing grains, beans, and other commodities in bulk

Pro:

• A convenient container to store larger quantities of dry foods – stores and stacks well, is compact, and can be carried easily.
• Inexpensive new and can be obtained used from a number of sources.
• A thick walled (90 mil) container with the proper gasket can be used effectively to control the atmosphere within for up to 1 to 3 years.
• Can be used in conjunction with foil pouches for convenience of storage.
• You can use multiple foil pouches stored in the bucket for convenience of use.
• Insects don’t easily penetrate the thick walls.
• Can withstand some rough handling.
• Because insects at all stages are destroyed within about 14 days, the short term effectiveness of using an oxygen absorber to create an oxygen free environment is useful.

Con:

• HDPE is a permeable (porous – albeit microscopic) material and gas transmission rates (the length of time gases such as oxygen will travel through a given material) indicate that it will take 1 to 3 years for the atmosphere within the bucket to match the atmosphere outside (our normal atmosphere is normally about 21% oxygen and 79% nitrogen with a very small amount of other gases such as carbon dioxide).  This means that if you started with an oxygen free or low level to begin with, that over time the oxygen level in the bucket will continue to increase until it reaches parity or equality with the normal atmosphere.
• If you want the atmosphere to remain constant inside your container, or be oxygen free for extended periods of time, HDPE plastic buckets are not appropriate – check with the manufacturers (as I have done) and find out their specifications and recommendations for your needs and the specific container you want to use.
• The ability to maintain whatever atmosphere you desire within the container will depend not only on the quality of the HDPE walls, but also the integrity of the gasket seal.
• HDPE will absorb odors and they will eventually permeate into the contents of the bucket.  Direct packed foods will also absorb the odor.  Do not store plastic buckets in areas that have a strong smell. (NOTE: Foil pouches within a bucket will prolong the odor absorption)
• Rodents and other animals can easily break into plastic buckets.
• Not recommended for long term storage (3+ years) of directly packed foods.

Pouches – There are literally thousands of possible combinations of materials and sizes available to create a pouch that will contain food.  Normally a food manufacturer or packer goes to a company that specializes in manufacturing pouches and gives the company their specifications and requirements for the specific foods to be packed.

IMPORTANT NOTE:  It is common these days among those who sell empty pouches for food storage, or food already in pouches, to use the term “Mylar pouch.”  This is very misleading.  By itself the term can mean anything and it tells you nothing of importance so that you can make the appropriate decisions on what pouch to use.  The “Mylar” brand is the registered trademark name of a PET polyester film manufactured by DuPont Teijin Films.  They produce hundreds of variations of this polyester resin material.  It is a component used in the production of many variations of packaging material.  It can be clear or opaque such as in wrappers for food bars or Mylar balloons – that look “metalized” yet contain no foil.  Mylar by itself is not an appropriate material for long term pouched food.  Ask you supplier what they mean when they say “Mylar.”

For those reading this article the requirements needed are to pack dry foods for the long term.  If you buy stock pouches from a distributor you need to tell them what you plan to put in it and what your expectations are for the long term.  You should insist on knowing the specifications (especially the gas and vapor transmission rates) of the pouch and whether they suit your needs.

If you want a pouch that gives you the longest possible shelf life for your foods, you will need a laminated pouch consisting of multiple components and layers.  As far as pouches are concerned, one of those layers must be foil (NOTE: All plastics are gas and vapor permeable – some rates are very high – meaning that gases transmit through them very quickly – and some plastics both individually and in combination have slower rates).  Only quality foil is a non-permeable gas and moisture barrier – that is foil without microscopic holes)

Ask the distributor the specifications of the pouch, the different components used – not only for barrier properties but also for durability, the transmission rates if not foil, if foil – its thickness, and the reliability and reputation of the manufacturer.

Pro:

• The variety of available sizes offers flexibility in choices of quantities to store.
• Costs are reasonable.
• Can be effective as a short term oxygen free container.
• Small pouches of food can be very useful for bartering and distributing among those in need during in an emergency.

Con:

• Not recommended for very long term packaging of products for an oxygen free environment.  Shelf life of pouched foods is recommended for 3 to 10 years depending on type of food product, storage conditions, handling, and composition packaging materials.
• Excessive or rough handling, loss of seal integrity, and pressure of sharp edges on the pouch from the products within can create “pin holes” (microscopic holes in the pouch material) that eventually will cause gases to be transmitted through the pouch (NOTE: I am concerned when I see and hear some folks instructing people to cram and squeeze foil pouches into plastic buckets).
• Rodents and other creatures can easily penetrate pouch material.

Metal cans – For food storage purposes #10 size (about 7/8 gal) and #2 ½ size (about 7/8 qt) are the most popular used with the proper can sealers.  It is possible, if you keep searching, to find 5 gallon square metal cans with a large pressure lid on the top side.  These are ideal for bulk food storage, although they may be hard to find (NOTE: I sold these cans packed with foods at AlpineAire Foods about 20 years ago).  You also may want to consider clean or new metal garbage cans as a means to store smaller size foil pouched foods.

Pro:

• Ideal for long term food storage.  The atmosphere within the cans, with the proper sealing, can remain oxygen free indefinitely.
• Metal is non-permeable for gas and vapor – a zero transmission rate.
• Difficult for rodents or animals to penetrate.
• Can withstand some rough handling.

Con:

• Costs can be higher than other materials.
• Extra attention must be given to proper sealing.
• Some metal containers may be difficult to obtain.
• Some cans may rust if exposed to moisture.

Glass

Pro:

• Excellent for long term food storage.  The atmosphere within the jars, with the proper sealing, can remain oxygen free indefinitely.
• Glass is non-permeable for gas and vapor – a zero transmission rate.
• Difficult for rodents or animals to penetrate.
• Easily obtainable and relatively inexpensive.

Con:

• Very fragile – must be stored and handled with care.
• Practical only in smaller size containers.

Personal recommendations and tips for long term pack your own food storage

First choice – if possible store foods in metal cans with the proper size oxygen absorber

Second choice –

• Pack foods in a heavy duty foil laminate pouch with the proper size oxygen absorber.  I prefer using a variety of smaller size pouches rather than one large pouch.
• If you seal the pouch with an iron – as opposed to a commercial impulse sealer – make sure you know the proper method to use.  If your seal isn’t adequate you are wasting your time and money using an absorber.
• Place the foil pouches carefully – to avoid “pin holes” and seam damage, into another larger plastic or metal container (NOTE: Sturdy cardboard boxes will do if infestation from insects, rodents, and other animals is of no concern).  This will facilitate handing and storage.
• When you use the proper size oxygen absorber in a foil pouch it will create a slight vacuum and the pouch will tighten up somewhat (Remember you are not creating a complete vacuum that would produce a brick hard pack, you are only removing about 21% of the air volume – it will be absorbed by the iron oxide in the oxygen absorber sachet).
• Periodically – especially in the first two weeks – check on the pouch to make sure it still looks tightened up.  If at some point it looks normal, then the integrity of the pouch has been compromised and the atmosphere in the pouch has equalized with the outside atmosphere.

I see no point in putting additional oxygen absorbers into the plastic bucket or container in which the foil pouch is placed.

Third Choice

• If you have a smaller quantity of dry goods to store and you can protect or store foods safely – use glass jars.  Either half gallon size Ball canning jars or one gallon size jars – both need lids with a small rubber seal on the lid to create an air tight container.
• Drop an appropriate size oxygen absorber in the jar then seal it tight.
• Store away from light.

Tips

• I do not recommend using the nitrogen “wand” method of atmosphere replacement in pouches, plastic, or metal containers if you want to create a truly oxygen free environment.
• The oxygen absorber properly used is the best method for creating an oxygen free environment.
• Certain foods packed for long term storage may not need an oxygen free atmosphere.  I have covered the reasons for creating this type of environment earlier, and your specific needs may focus only on containers and storage conditions.
• I do not recommend storing commodities in their original paper or cloth sacks or boxes for the long term – unless you possess a very secure and unique storage facility.  The important issue here is infestation and environmental influences such as heat, moisture, and other airborne contaminants.
• Periodically inspect your food reserves for any sign of infestation or contamination.
• Read my article on Using and About Oxygen Absorbers.

Storage Conditions

There are six conditions to be aware of when storing food for emergency preparedness food storage, or outdoor recreation.  The foods being referred to in this post are shelf-stable freeze-dried, dehydrated, dried commodities.  Optimal storage conditions can also be applied to wet pack:  retort, MRE’s, canned goods, and other specialty longer term wet pack foods.

NOTE:  The six conditions listed are chosen because these are factors in which we have the control to optimize for the longest reliable shelf life.  TIME is the one factor that we can not control – and it does have a significant effect on the shelf life of various foods.  Nutritional value is lost with many foods over time.  To know with certainty the viable nutritional value of all food reserve items at any given time after a lengthy period of storage – is at best complex or most likely mere conjecture and guesswork.  What we can do is to apply proper planning procedures – do your research with trusted resources, rotate and consume your storage foods, and be realistic about how long you will really need the foods you choose to store.

• Temperature- This is the primary factor affecting the storage life of foods.  The cooler the better. 40 degrees-50 degrees would be great. Room temperature (65 degrees-72 degrees) or below is generally fine.  Avoid above 90 degrees for extended periods of time. The longer food is exposed to very high temperatures the shorter the edible life and the faster the degeneration of nutritional value.  Note:  There are some “foods” available for emergency preparedness that are known as “emergency food or ration bars.”  These products are generally referred to as “life raft bars” because they were originally designed for life rafts and can withstand high heat for extended periods of time.  They primarily consist of white sugar and white flour, and were not meant to be the sole source of nutrition for a long period of time.
• Moisture- The lower the better.  Moisture can deteriorate food value rapidly and create conditions that promote the growth of harmful organisms.  The moisture level contained in foods varies depending on the type of product it is.  Have foods in moisture barrier containers (metal, glass) in high humidity areas. Note:  Mylar bags or plastic buckets are not a long term (over 3 years) moisture or oxygen barrier. The moisture and gas transmission rates through these materials vary depending upon the specifications of the manufacturers.  Plastic absorbs gases, moisture, and odors.  Note:  Be careful where you store dry foods in cans.  Very cold flooring or any condition where there is a dramatic temperature differential may cause a build up of condensation inside the container.
• Oxygen – A high oxygen environment causes oxidation, which leads to discoloration, flavor loss, odors, rancidity and the breakdown of nutritional value in foods. It also allows insects to feed on dried food reserves. Without oxygen, insects cannot live, nor can aerobic (oxygen dependent) organisms. Whole grain and beans have natural oxygen barriers and can store for long periods of time in low humidity and if free from infestation. All other processed grains, vegetables, fruits, etc. must be in a very reduced (2% or less) oxygen environment for long term storage.  Note:  Mylar bags or plastic buckets are not a long term (over 3 years) moisture or oxygen barrier. The moisture and gas transmission rates through these materials vary depending upon the specifications of the manufacturers.  Plastic absorbs gases, moisture, and odors.  The best long term storage containers are glass and metal.
• Infestation – Examples include rodents, insects in all their stages of growth, mold, microorganisms, and any other creatures that get hungry – large or small.  The proper packaging and storage conditions are required to control infestation and not allow critters to both get into the food, or have the necessary environment for them to flourish if they are sealed into a container – such as in the form of eggs or spores.
• Handling – Rough handling can not only damage the food itself, but it can also adversely effect and compromise the integrity of the container in which the food is stored.  Glass of course can break; any pouched item can develop pin holes, tears, or cracks.  The seams on buckets and cans can be tweaked, twisted, or damaged to allow oxygen to enter the container.
• Light – Food should not be stored in direct sunlight.  Both for the potential of high temperature, and its affect on food value.  Sunlight directly on stored foods can destroy nutritional value and hasten the degeneration of food quality, taste, and appearance.  Foods packed in light barrier containers do not pose a problem with the affects of light.

Are You Prepared?....Tomorrow is too late!

Emergency preparedness will require the use of a survival kit. In the event of a natural disaster or terrorists activity, the ability to react with a quickness will save your life and your loved ones.  Individuals and families should be prepared to sustain themselves for several days. Emergency survival kits will need to contain water, food, and a first-aid kit, also chemicals to purify the water and a filter to filter the water.  There should also be some duct tape to secure doors and windows in case of a chemical attack, candles for light, matches, battery operated or solar source for radios and light.  Food will require a can opener and heat source. Baby supplies should also be included in your emergency preparedness kits.

Every individual and each member of a  family should have his or her own survival kit.  All of the kits should be stored in a secret and secure place, this place should only be known by yourself and members of your family.  It is a very good practice for individuals and or families to conduct emergency drills and during the course of these emergency drills thoroughly familiarize themselves with the contents of their      survival-emergency-preparedness-kits. 

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Water

In my opinion there should be two gallons of water for each person for each day. 

BPA Free plastic drink bottles are great for water storage. Glass bottles are suitable, but they are heavier and are easily broken.

Camping thermos jugs are another suitable for water storage.

Wash the containers carefully and dry completely before filling them. Add either bleach or peroxide to the water. It will take about ten drops to purify the water and keep it safe without altering the taste. Be sure that the container is filled to the top and does not contain air.

Water should be stored off the floor. It should be in a place that will not freeze. Water will expand when frozen and break the container. It should be stored in a dark area and at a good distance from chemicals.

Food

Canned vegetables, meats and soup should be available. In my opinion there should be five cans per day for each person. Survival bars are available and will provide the necessary nutritional requirements for one day.  MRE's, meals ready to eat are also available in triple layered sealed containers. They should be stored in a cool area to prevent deterioration of taste and nutritional values.

Dehydrated camping pouches are handy to have in your survival kit and are readily available. All foods should be non-perishable for safe consumption.